Treading water
Fashion industry challenged as growth in volume sold offsets sustainability gains

WRAP's updated UK Textiles Pact Roadmap establishes eight new circularity indicators across four workstreams to address challenges where rising production volumes have offset per-tonne environmental improvements made by signatories

Helen Gates | 29 October 2025

Fashion designer cutting old clothes for reuse

The Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP) has launched its updated Roadmap for the UK Textiles Pact, introducing new circularity indicators designed to support the sector’s push to be more sustainable.

Signatories, which include major brands such as Asos, Next and Primark, have reduced carbon emissions by six per cent and water use by nine per cent. However, a 17 per cent increase in textile volumes has resulted in the Pact's total carbon footprint rising by 10 per cent and water use increasing by seven per cent over the same timeframe.

The Roadmap establishes indicators across four workstreams: Design for Circularity, Circular Business Models, Closing the Loop on Materials, and a new Supply Chain Decarbonisation workstream.

Catherine David, CEO at WRAP, commented: "The Textiles sector is as fizzing with innovation and new thinking as ever. As a sector we face a huge challenge: how to decouple commercial growth from the use of carbon and water intensive primary materials, and make the transition to Circular Living.

"Our new Roadmap provides updated tools and pathways for the next phase of circular growth in our textiles sector."

Pact targets

The new approach establishes 2030 targets for 100 per cent of material use from lower-impact sources such as recycled fibres and 75 per cent of products designed for durability and recyclability. For circular business models, the indicators aim for 20 per cent of revenue delivered via resale, rental, repair and similar models, with 30 per cent of transactions enabled by them.

For materials recovery, signatories aim to collect 60 per cent of the textiles they sold through takeback and collection schemes. The supply chain decarbonisation targets include switching 80 per cent of garment assembly facilities to renewable electricity and 50 per cent of fabric production facilities, while phasing out half of coal-fired heating in textile mills.

WRAP's modelling indicates the indicators were developed to ensure they drive progress towards the Pact's 50 per cent carbon and 30 per cent water reduction targets while accounting for predicted volume growth through to 2030.

The NGO reports that signatories received nearly three times the value for every pound contributed to the Pact during its first phase. Achievements include increasing the use of recycled fibres from two per cent in 2021 to 16 per cent currently, above the global average of 7.6 per cent reported by Textile Exchange (https://textileexchange.org/materials-market-report/).

Policy alignment and EPR development

The Roadmap aligns with UK, EU and global legislation including the European Green Deal's Circular Economy Action Plan and the UN Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action.

WRAP states it is developing a detailed plan for a national Textiles Extended Producer Responsibility scheme through collaboration with the Pact's EPR Working Group. The organisation has supported the Irish government in developing a national Textiles EPR system and was part of the consortium that designed Australia's Seamless product stewardship scheme, which began operations in 2024.

Circular Economy Minister Mary Creagh said: "We are committed to moving towards a circular economy where waste is cut and resources are valued; fashion should not cost the Earth. Through our Circular Economy Strategy, we will support growth in the sustainable textiles sector, and I welcome the updated UK Textiles Pact Roadmap as a key step in driving climate action and circular innovation."

Over 130 organisations have signed up to the UK Textiles Pact, representing more than 62 per cent of textiles placed on the UK market.

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How will the government and DMOs address the challenges of including glass in DRS while ensuring a level playing field across the UK?

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There's no easy solution to include glass in the DRS while maintaining a level playing field. Potential approaches include a phased introduction of glass, potentially with higher deposits to reflect its logistical challenges. The government and DMOs could incentivise innovation in glass packaging design and subsidise dedicated return points for glass-handling. Exemptions for smaller businesses unable to handle glass might also be necessary. Any successful solution will likely blend several approaches. It must address the differing priorities of devolved administrations, balance environmental benefits with logistical and cost implications, and be supported by robust consumer education campaigns emphasizing the importance of glass recycling.