Clothes donated to developing countries should be returned to the UK for recycling once they have been worn out, research conducted by the University of Huddersfield has found.

At present, 300,000 tonnes of post-consumer textiles (PCT) are donated abroad by the UK as clothing every year. Predominantly sent to sub-Saharan Africa and Eastern Europe, the clothes are often worn until they fall apart, inevitably ending up in landfill and contributing towards harmful greenhouse gasses.

The study argues that it would be more environmentally sound to implement a system enabling discarded clothing to be returned to the UK, where it can be successfully recycled and reintegrated into the country’s design supply chain.

The university’s School of Art, Design and Architecture – which carried out the research – says it is now looking into ways of developing a ‘circular economy’, benefitting developing and donating countries alike.

Dr Pammi Sinha, a Reader in Fashion Management at the university, explained the significance of the study: “The boom in secondhand clothing donated by the West has really brought mixed blessings for developing countries. It has helped clothe populations living below the poverty line but – along with cheap imported clothing – has also harmed domestic textile industries and increased greenhouse gases.

“Although the countries importing these clothes are developing their waste-management infrastructure and policies, their focus isn’t on this increasingly important issue.”

Dr Sinha, who is also Huddersfield’s Subject Leader for Textiles, recently participated in a fieldtrip to Tanzania, as part of the university’s End of Life Management of Textiles project.

Whilst there, she visited a landfill site close to the Tanzanian capital, Dar es Salaam, from which samples were collected and are now being identified and examined to see how the fibres and fabrics might be salvaged for recycling.

The university has already begun collaborating with Dar es Salaam City Council, universities and waste collection companies in Tanzania, as well as a ‘leading automotive firm’ in the UK to see if the recovered garments could be used to make textiles for the car industry.

Huddersfield hopes that the project will improve links and foster greater cooperation between supply-chain industries, waste-management systems and academics.

Dr Sinha added: “We need real collaboration between recyclers, retailers and textile manufacturers to ensure secondhand clothes don’t end up rotting in African landfill sites. Implementing a circular economy has the potential to provide just the kind of environmentally sustainable, socially equitable and economically competitive solution required.

“In addition, if we can integrate developing countries’ firms into the global supply chain we can help their textile industries and create an all-round win-win situation. This work is a classic example of the philosophy that design should improve lives. It’s all about finding solutions and delivering real, tangible benefits.”

The announcement coincides with the School of Art, Design and Architecture’s hosting of the INDEX: Design to Improve Life exhibition, which will run throughout September and will showcase the work of the finalists of the €500,000 award. The competition recognises sustainable solutions to global and local challenges.

For more information on the End of Life Management of Textiles project, visit the University of Huddersfield’s website.